wohnung rustikal einrichten
hello! welcome to the fifth part of the video documentation of our tiny house-building! we are now in the middle of the eighth construction day and can almost celebrate: we are almost done with the floor. four rows are still missing. and now, just before the end, we want to show you how we install the floor, the floorboards. the floor planks are screwed and as you can see here the screws should be in a row whenever possible, because they are screwed down on the bar, which is only six centimeters wide and at the points where two planks meet, the boards should, of course, meet in the middle. under the plastic film you can see the line that indicates the center and there you have to check that the
boards have right angles so there is no gap in between. therefor you must be careful when cutting, be careful when marking that you really cut and mark perpendicular. so that the screws are always in a line, so it just looks visually more attractive, we made a small template, which you can see here. this is always the height of a board here and the width of the beam, 6 centimeters. and the screws are then always exactly in the middle and at a predetermined height. the template can be put here so that it is exactly in the middle. and then
just mark with a pencil and you know where the screw has to go. and then you can either screw directly or pre-drill. at the ends of the boards here, if the screws of the boards are so close to the end, it is worth pre-drilling. simply with a thin drill, that is a bit thinner than the screw itself. then the wood does not break at the end. now we want to show how to proceed step by step. so, first you have to know how long the planks should be. where the boards meet
they should never meet consecutively. now here two boards meet. then here they can not meet and here they meet again. just like laying bricks, so that it is offset so that it is more stable. that means, here in the next row two boards meet, in the next row not. that means, here they can meet again. here we have a piece that is about 60 centimeters long. i will measure that. if you have a big building project, then it is worth investing in a really good tape measure of steel, that keeps well and is stable.
it is really worth to invest a bit of money. this has as a hook at the end, so you can mount it and not having to hold yourself. here helps the line that we previously marked on the bar, because we can directly see the middle. these are now almost exactly 59 centimeters here. now we have already picked a board, of which we can make the 60-centimeter-board. we have found that the boards are sometimes quite bent and that there are straight sections in between. now we have a bricklayer aluminium bar
that is a long water level, which is quite straight. with that we control whether the boards are straight and as you can see at the start it is still quite straight, but then the gap is getting bigger and the board bends. that's why we only take the foremost part where we have 60 straight centimeters. at the start you can use a steel-iron angle, that is also very important for the right angle, check if the angle is right. place it on the side and check from above. here it looks pretty good, not quite optimal, but quite good. in this case it is not that important because this board actually goes at the end.
there it does not need to be perfectly straight, since then the wall goes on it, then it's no longer visible. now i mark the 59 centimeters. you can simply hook the tape measure, which remains firmly fixed by itself. and then here just a small mark at 59 centimeters. then use the steel angle to make a really straight line and draw a 90 degree angle. exactly over the mark. best to make
a small x or so, that you later know where you have to saw, so everything has to stay from this line on. so you do not sawn on the wrong side of the line by mistake. that's it from measuring and marking, we will go sawing now. now we are done with sawing. the short board, 59 centimeters long. now we show you how we lay them. here, the spring of the previous board and the groove, the notch. these have to go into each other. this is
usually not so easy, because the spring points down a bit so you have to push in the board properly. mostly it does not fit totally by hand and then such a big rubber hammer is a good tool. you can put something in between, so you do not knock on the wood. then you get it in carefully. the boards often point up a little on the front side. then you can lean on it a bit, because the screw also pulls it down like this. and if you see, when you lean on it
and the slot increases, then you can again hammer, by pushing down here while hammering. then the board is again fixed better. if you now lean on it, then the slot no longer enlarges and the board is firmly installed. then you have to make sure that it fits to the right place at the marks. at the points at the ends of a board, where the screws come in, there the screws are relatively close to the end of the board. then it is good if you pre-drill. i will show it.
here is our marking tool. the drill, the drill bit, may be shorter than the screw. here it is about two-thirds of the screw so that the screw also can pull down well. just at the top, so that the wood does not tear up. and then we have such a top part, which allows you to make a top milling, so that the head of the screw, which also has such a shape, can easily go in and there is no damage to the wood. depending on what you want to do with the wood later, you can either screw the screw below the surface or exactly even with the floor.
if, for example, you want to grind the wood, the wood floor, it is good if the screws are a little below the surface that you do not touch the screws. that is not good for the the sandpaper. now that's about it. what's missing is two-thirds of the last row. here we have to cut the boards again. and then we are finally done with the floor. and the next video is about "putting up the walls". we look forward to it. see you!